Now that the entire front end of the Cruiser is gone, Cory and I decided to start work on the frame. We are using sanding wheels made by 3M to scrape the frame down.
Picture pirated from Jeff Zepp’s restoration web page. Thanks Jeff
We covered the engine compartment with plastic (similar to the stuff used for covering floors when painting a room). This won’t keep all the dust out, but will prevent some from entering parts of the motor. The only part I had to tape was the air intake.
When we were covering the motor, we discovered a leak in the front of the radiator, doh! This probably happened when we were trying to take off the bib bracket. Oh well, I was planning on having the radiator pressure tested anyway. I’m not removing it now so as to keep as much of the motor covered and sealed as possible during sanding.
Using the 3M sanding wheel, the frame is pretty easy to sand. Due to the New England rust, it does take some time to get the pitted rust off the frame, but our goal is not to have the frame bare steel. We just want to remove the loose rust.
Below are some before pictures of the frame.
Here are some after shots:
It’s definitely hard from these shots to see the exact amount of rust removed, but believe me, there is a big difference. Since we started, we’ve started "liquid wrenching" the bolts around the brake lines mounted to the frame. I’d really like to sand as much of the frame as possible, and whether I replace the lines or not, I still want to sand the frame.
The only problem we’ve had with the sanding wheels is with the old factory undercoating. The sanding wheel just seems to gum up (it appears to heat up and melt the old undercoating) and become ineffective. I will try some engine degreaser and possibly aircraft stripper to remove the undercoating first.
The next week or so of work will consist of continuing to sand the frame and removing the brake lines from the frame mounts. I probably won’t concentrate much on the frame under the tub, considering I may have a new one in a year or so. I will sand and POR-15 all the easy to get to parts of the rear frame though.
New Update 1/13/2000
Since the last update, Cory and I have discovered many holes in the front bib. I’m currently trying to locate one. Worst case, I will go with a Gozzard from LCC. We’ve also removed all the brake lines for the rear end, and have decided to leave the front brakes alone. The front end is in really good shape.
We’ve also discovered that I will need to replace my fuel lines. I will give an update on what is purchased soon.
Purchases since last update:
|
3M
Sanding Wheels
|
$7
each (used 2 so far)
|
|
POR-15
2 Quarts paint, 1 gallon Marine Clean, 1 Gallon Metal Ready
|
$104
|
|
Propane
powered Heater – 30,000 BTU
|
$118
|
Possible Upgrades
|
New
Hard Brake lines
|
Quote
$233 for all but 2 lines From Toyota. Most likely will go with braided
lines, and run a new path to rear end. Front Brakes are in great shape,
and will not be replaced.
|
|
Wheels
15X8 White Spoke
|
$26
each from Summit Off Road
$38
Each from JT Outfitters
|
|
New
brake pads for rear – Found that left brake wasn’t doing anything. Need
to determine if the cylinders are shot or adjusted incorrectly.
|
|
|
Need
a new Front Bib
|
???
|
|
Sanding
attachment for Compressor
|
Not
sure yet.
|
Sorry for the quick update. If there is anything you would like to see more pictures of, or have described in more detail, please email me at IMWinston@hotmail.com
Here are just some random shots of the Cowl. We will probably start
work in this in the coming weeks as well.
