Marlin Crawler's Hi-Steer Installation

This project all started one day on top of Lamentation Mountain in Connecticut. While on the trail properly called "Dangerous", I managed to bend my tie rod on a huge boulder. This was not a "real" problem. I managed to put the tie rod back to "almost" factory specs with a pry bar and a sledge hammer. 

2 weeks later, I hit the tie rod AGAIN in the same spot. This put a good arc in what was once a straight line. Seeing that the tie rod obviously was going to be a problem in the future, I started looking at alternative steering systems. I was in no real hurry to replace the bent tie rod because it was still pretty straight and the truck still drove straight . 

Then, the inevitable happened. About a month later, while having lunch on top of Lamentation Mountain, someone noticed a small crack developing in my tie rod right next to the tie rod end. It was only about 1/8 inch long, but it definitely needed some attention. I marked both sides of the crack and limped home, stopping every few miles to make sure that the crack had not grown. I got it home and ran a bead on the crack with the mig. This looked like a good temporary fix.

I decided that since this was my daily driver, it was time to bite the bullet and buy a new steering setup. The first time that I looked, the only available kit was from All Pro and it was EXPENSIVE!!!. This time when I looked, I found that Marlin had his own version of All Pro's kit. It was a bit cheaper and used Toyota FJ rod ends instead of heim joints. I liked this because replacements would be easy to get. I got out the trusty credit card and gave Marlin a call. I ordered his Hi-Steer kit which not only moves the tie rod above the leaf springs, it also comes with a super heavy duty tie rod and drag link as well as the steering arms for each side. 

Other parts and tools that you will need:

• IFS power steering box
• Some type of welder ( I have a Lincoln 240V mig )
• Acetylene Cutting torch
• 1 1/4 inch hole saw
• 1/2 inch drill
• Metric set of tools
• Hammers
• Pickle Fork

• Jack up the front axle and remove the tires
• Pull off the stock tie rod using a pickle fork and a hammer.
• Pull off the stock drag link. There is a cotter pin on each end of the drag link. Pull the cotter pins. Take a large flat head screwdriver and remove each end of the drag link. Pull out the 1/2 cup spacer and spring. Wiggle the ends and they should come free. The drag link is now of no use to you.
• The stock arms are held on by 4 nuts on studs. There are cone washers that center the arm onto the knuckle. Be careful not to damage any of the cone washers or nuts as you will be reusing them. A gentle tap after the nuts are taken off is all that is needed to dislodge the arms. The drivers side arm is a little tricky to get off, but there is no need to pull the shock, it will come off.
• Install the new Marlin arms. The drivers side arm is the one with 1 hole, the passenger side is the one with 2 holes. Line up the arm on the 4 studs. Gently tap on the top of the arms while lifting up on the knuckle. You need to get the bearing inside the knuckle to align with the new steering arm. DO NOT FORCE the arm on. Once the arm is on, install the cone washers, lock washers and nuts. Torque the nuts to Toyota specs. 

Drivers side arm installed

Passenger side arm installed

Next, I started playing with how I was going to mount the new IFS steering box.

• I pulled off the old steering box. I drained the reservoir of p/s fluid and disconnected the hoses at the steering box and plugged them. I disconnected the steering shaft from the front of the box. Then, I undid the bolts that hold the steering box to the frame. Also I removed the L shaped bracket beneath the steering box. Neither of these items are needed anymore and you can now sell your old steering box to an FJ40 owner for their power steering conversion.
• The point of no return...  I removed the torque rod and the upper bracket that is on the inside of the frame with a cutting torch.
• On the IFS box, I pulled off the stock pitman arm, making sure to mark its location on the box. You may need a puller to remove the arm, but I was able to remove mine by removing the huge nut and washer, applying some WD-40, letting it sit for a few minutes, and then gently tapping on the arm. 
• Next, I installed the supplied Marlin pitman arm onto the IFS box in the same location as the stock arm. I didn't tighen the nut yet, final adjustments may be needed. 

• I then installed the new Marlink tie rod onto the arms. I measured my old tie rod length to get a ballpark and adjusted the new Marlink accordingly. Then, I installed the Marlink onto the arms, The Marlink goes in the rear hole of the passenger arm to the drivers side arm.
• Next, I installed the draglink on the passenger arm, and then to the steering box. I then installed the bracket that is to be welded onto the top of the frame onto the power steering box. Once all of this was together and the steering shaft is slid onto the splines of the box and bolted up, it's time to align the box. I placed the box on the frame so that:
• The bracket would sit center and flush on top of the frame
• The draglink would be as parallel as possible with the tie rod
• The pitman arm would not hit the frame
• The steering shaft would be as straight as possible to the box




The tie rod and drag link must be as parallel as possible to avoid bumpsteer

• Once I was comfortable with its position, I tack welded the bracket to the top of the frame. Then I marked the center of the remaining two holes on the frame. I then removed the box, leaving the tack welded bracket.
• Next, I used my 1 1/4 hole saw to drill out the two holes that I marked. This went pretty easily. I found that the drill was to big to drill the inside hole, so I had to drill completely through the frame from the outside. 
• Once the holes were drilled, I slid the two sleeves into the holes, installed the p/s box, and put the bolts through the sleeves and the bracket, making sure that all three holes lined up properly and that the sleeves were flush with the OUTSIDE of the frame. Becasue the box sits on the outside of the frame, the bracket and the sleeves must sit flush on the outside. I then tack welded in the two sleeves. Time to take the p/s box out again. 
• I welded up both sides of the two sleeves and both sides (inside and out) of the bracket. I then, centered my steering wheel, slid the box onto the steering shaft, and bolted up the power steering box. I connected the drag link, connected up the power steering hoses, and bled the power steering. 
• The next day I took the truck to my local tire shop to have it aligned. 

What I gained:

• Beefier steering components
• Better flex due to no torque rod
• More ground clearance because of the steering components being above the springs
• Easier steering
• Better feel
• I can now (and did) install a u-bolt flip kit

• The troublesome drivers side steering arm
• The torque rod
• $800.00

Last updated: 10/16/99
Web Page Designed and Maintained by: Michael Fox
Problems/feedback? email: michael.fox@yale.edu